Review: Alila Kothaifaru Maldives

Why book?

To experience one of the most charming hotels in the Maldives; low-key and understated, situated on a lush, natural private island with all pool villas and wonderfully friendly and professional staff.

Set the scene

Not sure whether you want an overwater villa or a beach villa? Why not try both? About 45 minutes north of Malé International Airport by seaplane, in the Raa Atoll on a natural island known as Kothaifaru, the setting here is blessed with long white beaches and endless palm trees. Throughout the 27 acres, there is also thick jungle vegetation—think banyan trees, sea hibiscuses, and trees of tamu, Indian almond, and tamanu which gives the new space an already settled-in feel. That same leafiness lends the beach villas a feeling of privacy as each one is separated by swathes of greenery—care was taken to avoid the cutting down of trees where possible. 

The backstory

Currently the only Alila in the Maldives (although there was one in the past that has now been taken over by Hyatt), this spot exudes the brand’s sleek DNA with clean design courtesy of Singapore-based Studiogoto, an eco-centric philosophy, understated luxury, and trademark wood latticing. Nature has deliberately been allowed to dominate throughout, with buildings slung close to the ground, and foliage planted on rooftops that tumbles down their walls. The architects have ensured that the outside is brought in through one floor-to-ceiling glass wall in all the villas. Restaurants and bars are mostly open to the sea whilst the spa, with four treatment rooms, elevated to sit in line with the treetops, is wrapped in the privacy of the jungle foliage. Here butlers are called hosts, there is no Presidential suite and the minimalism of the design seems to have spilled over into the low-key vibe that resonates throughout the resort.

The rooms

The 80 pool villas are split between 36 overwater villas and 44 on the beach with sunrise and sunset options. Beach villas are private with a good-sized swimming pool. The lush vegetation completely screens any other villas and there is a little path in front of each one which leads down to the sea. These villas are bigger than the water villas and offer a separate sitting room adjoining the bedroom, with bathrooms outside in an internal courtyard which come with generous showers and vast tubs to soak in. In the overwater villas, the bathroom has a sliding door that can be opened up to the sea, whilst the rain shower and egg-shaped tub are positioned to offer a view across the turquoise waters. These villas have a swimming pool inset on the deck, with stairs descending directly into the sea.

All villas come with a vast array of Alila amenities from the bath salts fragranced with ylang-ylang, lavender, and lemongrass to his and hers collection. There are sunscreens, pillow mists, his and hers lip balm (think ginger and lemon) insect repellent, and after-sun gels. Beds are clad in the softest of linens and you just might get an art installation on top of them on your last day, as I did—“see you soon” laid out in flowers and leaves.

The food and drink

There are two restaurants and two bars to choose from. Order the asparagus risotto with mint, peas, spring onions, truffle oil, and parmesan at all-day Sea Salt, or immerse yourself in a sense of place and try the Taste of the Maldives, encompassing tuna in three different ways, along with roasted aubergine and freshly made chapatis. Mirus Bar is the place for a sundowner, positioned perfectly to watch the skies turn orange, pink, or red. Don’t miss the Mirus Martini which comes with a kick of local chili in a dazzling cocktail glass, or their special twist on a Negroni, aged inside a hollowed-out coconut for three days.

Sake lovers should head straight to Yakitori for a range of sake cocktails such as Umami Balance, where sake is blended with peach schnapps, sage leaves, and lime juice. Bar snacks include the melt-in-the-mouth Wagyu beef on skewers with a ginger and maple soya sauce glaze. Just a few steps away is Umami, the resort’s fine dining restaurant which draws its inspiration from Japan. Apart from a selection of delicious sushi and sashimi, here is the place to try the local lobster with a yuzu glaze or a miso-marinated black cod. And do start with the crispy tuna sashimi taco, a memorable concoction of yellowfin tuna, and truffle dressing. Breakfast is a la carte with pastries (the adventurous should try the surprisingly good curry croissants) and fruit brought to the table.

The spa

With all main areas of the hotel facing the sea, the thinking was to offer something different with the spa, hence the decision to hide it away deep within the jungle vegetation in the interior of the island. The four treatment rooms, elevated on stilts to sit amongst the treetop canopy line, are connected by walkways. There is also a yoga platform from which you feel surrounded by the noises of the jungle. Therapists come from Bali, Thailand, and Bhutan and offer a range of massages and treatments using Alila Living products. Book Meilin for a seriously good manicure.

The area

The Raa Atoll, one of the deeper atolls in the archipelago, offers easy access to the Hanifaru Bay Unesco World Biosphere Reserve—famous for its manta rays—and is near Vaadhoo Island where you can see the Sea of Stars phenomenon.

The service

From touch down at Malé airport where Alila’s man on the ground, Hamdhoon, greets you with broad smiles and impressive efficiency to your personal host (do request lovely Mal, who mended my broken shoe, picked me up, dropped me off, reminded me of my schedule, got housekeeping in when I was out, and still has time to gather an Instagram following of near 30k), service here is what makes this resort stand out in the crowd of smart hotels in the Maldives. After a few days, it will start to feel like home with staff remembering your preference for still or sparkling water, the names of your children, and where your favorite table is. So much so that there is an urge to book a repeat trip before you have finished the first one.

For families

For small children, sand and sea are all that are required for the perfect holiday, but here there is also a Kid’s Club with activities with crafts such as weaving things from coconut leaves, collecting shells to make a necklace, bowling, or crab hunting. For teenagers, snorkeling or learning to dive are popular options as well as windsurfing, stand-up paddling, and kayaking. Sunset cruises in a traditional wooden dhoni are great for all the family.

Eco effort

One of Alila’s pillars is sustainability and the drive to be eco-friendly. Here they have their own bottling plant, no plastics in the resort, and their kitchens have a composting and waste management program. There are solar panels on the roofs of the administrative buildings and when I was there, plans for an organic garden were being finalized.

Accessibility for those with mobility impairments

Although once at the resort there are options to house those with mobility impairments, the transfer by seaplane makes this nigh-on impossible.

Anything else to mention

If you are hungry at any time of the day, the grab and go café, Pibati (which means to drink, absorb, imbibe in Sanskrit), has a selection of snacks and ice creams as well as freshly brewed coffees and a range of teas. Coming soon is the exclusive dining experience at The Shack where on a private sandbank, a few boat rides away, you can have your own picnic lunch or an evening BBQ.