Review: Caravan by Habitas Agafay

Why book?

To immerse yourself in the sparsity of the Agafay desert in minimalist luxury that leaves a shallower carbon footprint. Habitas, known for its stylish simplicity, brings to its newest resort the essentials of communality, relaxation, high-quality food, and nature. Or, as they say, “luxury for the soul.”

Set the scene

Set among the lunar dunes of the Agafay desert, yet only a 45-minute car drive from Marrakech, this is a resort for those who prefer to dodge downtown Marrakech’s sensory explosions in favor of quiet, laid-back, Berber surroundings within toe-poking distance of the big city. There’s a faint homestead vibe to the place: Arab stallions bounce around the round-pen, while peacocks and a donkey roam within enclosures, as well as goats and chickens (used for guests’ eggs and milk). Nearby, the garden grows herbs and vegetables that go into the chefs’ dishes.

Guests sit in glass-wrapped communal lounges underlain with Berber rugs and big poufs; these spaces, along with the orange-themed, raffia-lamped dining verandah, merge seamlessly with the outdoors. Ambient music, tastefully curated by Habitas co-owner, Eduardo Castillo, will have you nodding your head in sync with (and in approval of) the electro rhythms. At the outdoor emerald-tiled bar, couples and wedding parties knock back cocktails against a backdrop of Atlas peaks and incandescent sunsets that cool into stunning starry night skies.

The backstory

Caravan Agafay is the latest hotel by the Habitas group, who have carved a niche with their sustainable-yet-luxurious eco retreats for travelers who eschew the usual bells-and-whistles amenities in favor of communal vibes and engagement with nature. Wellness, food, music, and giving back to local communities—these are values paramount to Habitas’s founders Oliver Ripley, Kfir Levy, and Eduardo Castillo. In 2016 they opened their flagship hotel in Tulum, Mexico, then followed it up with further locations in Mexico, Namibia, and Saudi Arabia before launching this newest iteration in North Africa. Like all Habitas retreats, Agafay uses light-impact building materials that have been upcycled or sourced locally as much as possible and are designed to blend harmoniously into the landscape.

The rooms

Forty sandy-toned, Berber-inspired tents are scattered between stone paths illuminated by lamps after dark. Each ensuite tent—solar-powered with eco toilets—embodies minimalist luxury. There are no minibars or TVs, just wooden floors and earthy cream and ochre tones reminiscent of the regional rock. Moroccan lamps, Berber rugs, and Berber designs on the chair upholstery provide splashes of style and color to lend a pared-down elegance. All tents offer views of the surrounding mountains and are positioned to give each room private outdoor space. The pricier suites contain a private outdoor deck with seating, while some of the next-tier lodges have stone terraces. Rates from $350 per night.

Food and drink

The food at the Olivar restaurant is reason alone to come visit. It is simply sensational. The Mexican head chef, seconded from the Tulum site, has created a fusion of Mexican, Berber, European, and Middle Eastern cuisine. The menu is constantly evolving and subject to experimentation, but it minimizes gluten and uses the freshest ingredients either from local suppliers or from Habitas’s own garden. Highlights include the prawn tagine in coconut sauce, the beet salad with feta and pickled onion, and the lamb mechoui—slow-roasted underground in the on-site, traditional Berber clay oven. Desserts like the chocolate fondant are to die for.

The area/surrounding region

The Agafay desert and Atlas Mountains make for a vast and beautiful playground. Activities include horse riding, camel trekking (with an escort who takes surprisingly artful photos of you mounted on your saddle), and e-bike tours through quartz-filled dunes and eucalyptus groves. There are excursions to the Atlas Mountains where a guide will take you to a Berber village for hot tea, rug-weaving demos, and explanations on how this seemingly barren landscape is a hive of botanical medicines, plants, and fauna.

At night, a local astronomer conducts fascinating stargazing sessions. Wielding a laser pen, he’ll point out the various constellations and let you view Jupiter and Saturn’s rings through his telescope on cloudless nights. Any stargazing neck strain can be ironed out the next morning with the resident yoga instructor who holds classes in a pretty, geodesic dome. There’s also an unheated outdoor swimming pool fringed with desert plants and shaded sun lounges to cool off under the sun.

The spa

In the Wellness Centre, the massage room uses locally inspired features, like argan oil. Habitas’s wellness program is still evolving, but expect a more holistic, experiential approach that goes beyond the standard treatments; a more playful way of expressing oneself (such as desert walks and rock discovery) that complements Habitas’ inward, meditative experiences.

The service

The service is low-key, attentive, and fuss-free. The staff speak varying combinations of French, Arabic, and English, and will happily respond to requests, no matter how unorthodox.

For families

This is more of a grown-up affair, but families with children above age 12 are welcome.

Eco effort

All rooms are powered by solar panels, and the intention is for the resort to eventually go fully solar. Single-use plastic is nowhere to be seen—Habitas is committed to eliminating the stuff and has been awarded the Oceanic Champion Badge for adopting The Oceanic Standard.

Accessibility

The retreat is designed to be a part of the natural environment, so the paths are quite rocky and uneven, but staff are happy to assist with any mobility needs. The tents on higher ground are more easily accessible.