Review: Casa Chablé

Why book?  A uniquely remote beachfront luxury lodging experience located within one of Mexico’s most spectacular nature refuges.

Set the scene A few hours south of Cancun, past the endless strip of all-inclusives, past the increasingly frenetic development of Tulum, you pass through the colorful arch designating the Si’An Kaan Biosphere Reserve—a 2000-square mile UNESCO designated coastal marshland boasting everything from manatees to jaguars. You could spend another two hours jostling down the dirt track towards Punto Allen, but instead you board a small fishing boat that whisks you across the serene expanse of the Campeche Lagoon, past islands of mangroves patrolled by colonies of frigate birds. You arrive at a small dock and walk a few hundred feet to the Casa Principal, the hotel’s main space, where rattan chairs and sofas and hammered metal tables rest on cool polished stone floors, while overhead, beaded chandeliers dangle from a high thatched ceiling. Think Serena & Lily with a Mayan inflection and a more vibrant color palette. 

The vibe is: Tranquil. With just ten rooms and no immediate neighbors, the natural world sounds the dominant note here. The clientele leans toward couples—young professionals from the D.F. on a long weekend, Europeans on extensive driving tours of the Yucatan, and Americans who have stayed at Chablé’s other properties. Don’t expect a large pool or a bar scene, but you’ve got a warm, aquamarine sea at your disposal, and the best drinks happen on the pier at sunset (Chablé is perhaps unique in all of Mexico in that you can view a sunrise and a sunset over water). Come to Case Chablé to fill your eyes and mind with sea and sky.

The backstory Casa Chablé is housed on the former grounds of a small nature retreat called Mukan (which itself occupied the one-time private house of a Mexican family). With development now off-limits in the reserve, Chablé undertook an extensive renovation (while being forced by regulation to adhere to the existing footprint), bringing it up to the standards the Mexican-owned company has become known for in properties like Readers’ Choice perennials Chablé Yucatan and Chablé Maroma. 

The rooms The ten rooms are split between five suites in the Casa Principal (each with a balcony) and five beachfront villas, the latter being more memorable. The rooms, with colorful textiles, ceramics from Oaxaca’s La Chicharra studio, whitewashed walls offset with dark sapodilla wood floors, are cool and welcoming after a day in the bright sun. The one to aim for in this latter category is Hunab Ku (though you really can’t go wrong), named for a Mayan god, located some 75 steps through powdered sand to the water’s edge (or less, depending on the tide). The exterior is equally welcoming, with a large crescent-shaped couch, abundant plantings, an outdoor moon shower (as well as an indoor shower that opens to the outdoors), and an ocean-facing hammock strung between two palm trees that virtually demands your copious idle hours. You’ll feel a bit like Robinson Crusoe, albeit with drinks service.    

Food and drink As with Chablé’s other properties, the food program is overseen by Jorge Vallejo, who helms Mexico City’s Quintonil (named as one of the world’s top 50 restaurants). Chef Williams Saurina adds his own touches, with novel spins on ceviche, zesty salsas flecked with pumpkin seeds, and aromatic Tikin Xic (sea bass with recado rojo, made from local achiote, wrapped in totomoxtle leaf). Ask for coconut sorbet, made from the abundant on-property supply.

The spa Not yet open on my visit.

The neighborhood/area If you’re looking for a scene, stick to Tulum. You’re essentially alone in a vast nature refuge, so the only crowds you’ll see flocking are of the avian variety. To stretch your legs, grab one of the resort’s bikes and take the half-hour ride on the narrow, largely traffic-free dirt road down to Punto Allen, a tiny fishing village with a picturesque lighthouse.

The service Like the atmosphere, the service is low-key but warm; after a few days you may say goodbye with a hug to the waitstaff. The concierge can arrange birdwatching or fishing tours, while Chef Williams Saurina will guide you through the finer points of making fresh salsas in volcanic molcajetes, to be sampled with warm totopos. There’s a small plunge pool, a compact fitness center, and a rooftop spa where the jacuzzi offers a panoramic view of the Caribbean Sea.

Eco effort 100% solar and wind power (with diesel generator backup), water desalination plant onsite; local materials used in the renovation. 

Accessibility Stairs, no ramps or elevators. 

Anything left to mention? As tempting as it might be to laze on the beach with a book, try to get out with one of Si’an Kaan’s licensed and knowledgeable guides—they’ll show you where the crocodiles like to bask and tell you how jaguars are actually good swimmers. Go snorkeling with manta rays and angelfish on the Mesoamerican Reef (the world’s second largest).