Review: Jun's

In some ways, chef Kelvin Cheung embodies the Dubai dream: He touched down in the city after stints at celebrated restaurants across Canada, the U.S., Belgium, and India, bringing with him the global sensibility with which the UAE has become synonymous. His menu at Jun’s reflects his cosmopolitan outlook, packing flavors he’s picked up along the way into sophisticated spins on comfort fare: tempura za’atar chaat with tamarind, yogurt, and avocado; red-hot chicken karaage with waffles; lobster pani puri with achaar; lamb koobideh tsukune; and rainbow heirloom carrots with smoked labneh and soy honey butter. But the real star here may well be Cheung himself, a natural raconteur who makes an effort to come by each table to share the spellbinding stories behind each dish. When the weather is nice, grab a seat on the patio in the shadow of the sparkling spire of the Burj Khalifa—it doesn’t get more Dubai than that.