Review: Lasai

Despite being just a few meters from its original address in Rio's Botafogo neighborhood, the 2.0 version of Lasai bears little resemblance to its former concept. Down from 45 seats, chef Rafa Costa e Silva's awarded restaurant now serves only ten diners per service, offering a much more unique experience. A modern, intimate room with no windows, a marble L-shaped counter, and dramatic lighting has replaced the airy old colonial townhouse. The only similarity is Costa e Silva's vegetable-oriented dishes, cooked chiefly with ingredients he grows on his two nearby farms. The change has helped him perfect the service (led by his wife Malena Cardiel) and “thicken the broth” of his minimalist cuisine, relying on more exclusive ingredients, such as sea urchin and ikura. Lasai has consolidated as a top-notch destination in the Marvelous City.