Review: Mandarin Oriental Palace, Luzern

Why book the Mandarin Oriental Palace Luzern?

Because taking the cure has never been this much fun.

Set the scene

You’re “stone-rich,” as the Swiss might say, and staying at the prettiest Belle Epoque pad on the prom, so close to the banks of Lake Lucerne that you’re beak to beak with the swans. At one time, you would have entered through an ornate Art Nouveau doorway. Alas, in the 21st century the Mercedes require a driveway, so guests now stroll along a vaulted, icicle-white axiom corridor. On the way to your room, you’ll catwalk past Late Romantic-era oil paintings from the original hotel collection juxtaposed against up-to-the-minute artistic interpretations of the same works by contemporary Swiss women artists, such as Rebecca Bowring’s haunting black and white prints on dead bamboo leaves. Guests flash their Patek Philippes and Raymond Weils as they carousel between interlinked rooms containing the smoky-hued lobby, an airy verandah for afternoon tea, a Ladies Room restored to its fin de siècle glory—all fleur-de-lis wall panels and extravagant chandeliers—and the MOzern brasserie, the snappy heart of the hotel.

The backstory

The Palace opened in 1906, during The Silver Age of Alpinism, a time which drew adventurers, mountaineers, and Queen Victoria to Switzerland’s peaks, slopes, and crystalline lakes. It remained under the ownership of the original Bucher family founders for almost 100 years, weathering two World Wars and four Wall Street crashes before the financial pressures of the 2008 world economic crisis forced its sale a few years later. In 2022, following a meticulous five-year renovation, it reemerged as a Mandarin Oriental, hanging on to the Palace moniker as a tribute to the hotel’s storied past. London firm Jestico + Whiles (who worked on the Kempinski Palace Egelberg and the Villa Honneg in Ennetbügen) were brought in to transform the dowdy dowager into a Belle Epoque beauty of worthy of today, shearing away the layers of past alterations to showcase the original checkerboard marble floors, coral scagliola pillars, and ice cream-colored stucco walls against swathes of cool white. The result is mesmerizing.

The rooms

As with most heritage hotels, there are subtle differences between the 136 rooms and suites in terms of their layouts, but every single one comes with epic—in the true sense of the word—views of Lake Lucerne and the majestic shards of Mount Pilatus (the billowing cumulus clouds that roll over its summit are said to be the fault of Pontius Pilate, who is allegedly buried on the mountain). The colors of the surrounding landscape morph from pistachio to caramel, mauve to slate, olive to indigo, depending on the weather and the time of day; a palette which has been tastefully transplanted into the pared-back rooms. Substantial doors open onto parqueted Swiss oak floors, ivory-white paneled walls, simple ceiling molding, and beautifully restored window frames. Orbital brass chandeliers, Molteni furniture, and Tisca woolen rugs (handwoven by Transylvanian craftspeople) add the right amount of modernity.

The Presidential Suite is wrapped inside the top floor of the turret under the Palace’s copper dome. Dressed in indigos and golds, it’s suitably luxurious, but the Panoramic Rooftop Terrace Suite is the one to book, for its dazzling deck and dizzying views.

Food and drink

An alumni of Le Cordon Bleu London, with spells at Michele Roux’s Le Gavroche and Gordon Ramsay’s Le Presser d’Argent, Israeli executive chef Gilad Peled has been tasked with delivering three Michelin stars within the year. No small feat. That would be one gong for six-seater Japanese kaiseki dining room Minamo and two for Colonnade, which will serve fine French fare in a mod-Edwardian mulberry and buttercream restaurant overlooking Lake Lucerne. Sadly, neither had opened at the time of my stay, although both should be in play in early 2023. Until then, there’s Mediterranean restaurant Quai 10, which spills out onto the terrace, and all-day brasserie MOzern. The latter serves a brilliant breakfast with bowls of nutty granola made by a team of eight women in Zurich, Höhn yogurts produced with solar energy, and quinces and jams passed down through five generations of a family from Hünenberg. For the rest of the day, Asian fusion is on the menu—steamed pork belly bao (buns), rainbow salad with sesame dressing, and Mongolian-style beef short ribs. Everything was delicious, but this Hongkonger would argue that the dishes weren’t authentically Asian; more vehicles for the type of diluted Asian flavors which Europeans love.

The spa

There’s a small but perfectly formed spa, with two treatment rooms, featuring products from Bellefontaine, an opulent anti-aging skincare range created by the Swiss-based, Hong Kong entrepreneur and founding partner of La Prairie, Peter Yip. Further along the first-floor corridor, there is a petite wellness suite, with a unisex steam room, sauna, and experience showers. There’s no swimming pool but, during the summer months, a more traditional form of spa-ing can be enjoyed at the delightful 19th-century Seebad lake pool which floats out front.

The neighborhood

The Mandarin Oriental Palace is perfectly placed for exploring the outdoorsy delights of Lake Lucerne. Take a walking tour of the Old Town’s ancient bridges, muraled Medieval buildings, and domed churches, a 10-minute stroll from the front door. Hop on one of a dozen boats or paddle steamer cruises, which leave from the quays you can see from your window. Take the world’s steepest cogwheel funicular to the top of Mount Pilatus or book one of the hotel’s complimentary electric bicycles and loop the lake, making stops at swimming bays and art-stuffed gardens along the way.

The service

From the doormen in their dapper black coattails to the encyclopedic concierge and cheerful housekeeping team, the multilingual staff could charm the alpine swifts from the chestnut trees that line Lake Lucerne’s promenade.

For families

The Palace is more of a grown-up affair but inner and outer connecting rooms, roll-out beds, and children’s amenities are available.

Eco effort

The Mandarin Oriental as a group eliminated all single-use plastics in December 2021. Here, Diptique toiletries come in chic metal tubes and Nordaq water is delivered in glass bottles. Air-conditioning and electricity are powered by the lake and food is locally sourced, where possible.

Accessibility for those with mobility impairments

There is wheelchair access in all of the public areas and a number of fully accessible rooms and suites are available.

Anything left to mention?

In the summer months, the glorious Seebad Lucerne is open for swimming until 8 pm (water temperatures reach a balmy 21 degrees Celsius in July and August). Later, you can hang out at the rooftop bar and restaurant drinking tiki cocktails as the sun sinks into the Alps.