Review: Regent Phu Quoc

Why book? 

You’re forgiven if the Regent brand has slipped off your radar. After its heyday in the ’80s and ’90s, it failed to keep up with splashier newcomers and eventually lost its luster. Decades later, Regent Phu Quoc is the product of an ambitious brand revival and has already raised the bar in a country that isn’t exactly short of dreamy beach retreats. The message is clear: Regent has (re-)entered the chat.

Set the scene

In front, Phu Quoc’s sugar-white Long Beach, studded with skinny palms like needles on a pincushion. Out back, an “integrated resort complex” shared with the Intercontinental next door and several clusters of apartment blocks in various states of construction. The latter didn’t bother me, because what was sandwiched in between was just so utterly lovely: a lush resort laid out like a Rorschach test, with about 63 villas—126 in total—circling a lagoon and an 8-to-10-floor hotel wing on either side. The middle split is occupied by a colossal cabana-lined pool, though the Chanel-clad Saigonese weekenders that reigned supreme here seemed to prefer the dreamier backdrop of the beachfront pool instead. Handily, there is a Hollywood-esque REGENT sign plonked right there, should their Instagram followers ever forget where those selfies were taken.

The backstory

The Regent brand is a curious case. Since its founding in the 1970s, the group has been passed around like a hot potato and saw many of its properties revamp into Intercontinentals, Hyatts, and Four Seasonses over time. With the Regent Phu Quoc, now spearheaded by majority stakeholder IHG, the brand ushered in a new era. It’s the first Regent to eschew the swirling classic logo for the voguish new one and the first resort under IHG’s stewardship to implement the brand’s reimagined hallmarks created in consultation with tastemakers from the fashion and design industry. “Personal havens”, the brochure calls them. And “multi-sensorial experiences”, whatever that means. In layman’s terms, I’d say they’ve masterminded one of the finest resorts in all of Vietnam.

The rooms

Rooms? Please. There are no rooms. Only suites and villas—and very nice ones at that. All have that effortless living room look that sounds easy on paper, but is often hard to pull off. Regent does it just right: straight-lined bases warmed up with teak and creamy marble and just enough licks of burgundy and gold to up the chic-factor without venturing into garish territory. Fresh flowers abound, and coffee tables are set with a remarkably thoughtful collection of books by Phaidon and Rizzoli. Homeliness-wise, it does help too that most of the villas (and some of the suites) come with a full kitchen—pots, oven, cutlery, and all (you can order groceries or call in a private chef through your butler). And that’s just one of those clever touches. I kept finding new ingenuities that made me think: I can’t believe they thought of that. A set of loungers on both ends of my private pool, so I wouldn’t have to drag them in and out of the sun. Dental kits with a choice between mint or ginger. Wireless phone charging pads on the bedsides, and—get this—a fully stocked second minibar in the bedroom, because god forbid I’d have to totter to the kitchen for a cold drink after bedtime.

Food and drink

Days here start at Rice Kitchen, the all-day diner doling out breakfasts of avocado toast with roast tomatoes and white asparagus, and fruit- and flower-topped little bowls of yogurt from Da Lat. Plus steaming bowls of pho, of course. Later in the day, the menu is decidedly Vietnamese with a hint of dim sum—order the duck la lot with foie gras. Fronting the beach, the breezy Ocean Club serves Mediterranean-tinged comfort food—pizzas, pastas, the works—and seafood platters heaving with Phu Quoc lobster, king prawns, and oysters with yuzu gel and coconut tabasco foam. Around sunset, you’ll want to head up to Fu Bar, an infinity pool-lined rooftop spot with a gin-centric drink list and nightly sax jazz. And should you go hungry back in your villa, the complimentary minibars are stocked and replenished daily with everything from Belgian beers to all kinds of nuts, artisanal crisps, and craft chocolate by homegrown bean-to-bar maker Marou.

The spa

With everything else being so fabulously perfect, the spa was the only element that didn’t exceed my (by now) sky-high expectations. My massage was relaxing, sure, but as forgettable as dozens of other treatments I’ve had elsewhere. The high-tech hardware was all there (undulating quartz sand beds, a mani-pedi studio by Bastien Gonzalez), so it felt that with a bit more time for the young team to get their bearings (after all, they had only been operational for a month when I visited) they’ll soon be on the right track.

The area 

Think of Phu Quoc as Vietnam’s answer to Southeast Asian island big-hitters like Phuket and Koh Samui. It has similarly stunning beaches, ramshackle fishing villages, and a constellation of coral-fringed islets just offshore. And even though the Regent sits on its most developed stretch of sand (Long Beach on the western coast), its locale still feels wonderfully low-key. God knows for how long it’ll stay this way, though. Local investors with big, shiny ideas and dollar signs in their eyes are building casinos, amusement parks, and convention centers by the dozen, so you better get there before them.

The service 

All smiles and xin chào’s—even from the conical-hatted gardening crew and contractors fixing the last bits and bobs around the property. The GM has cherry-picked his team from some of the top hotels around the country, and it shows: they were attentive, easygoing, and on-the-ball when it came to anticipating my needs. Calls to the front desk were picked up before I could even put the horn to my ear. During my first dinner, I was visibly disappointed when my favorite starter, the burrata, was unavailable. The next evening, I didn’t even have to ask—the cheese (made in Vietnam!) was already waiting for me.

For families 

I regret not bringing my three year old along, because he would’ve loved it—even though the kids club has yet to open. There are shallow areas in the pool and ample space to play on the semi-private beach. Multiple villas hide behind the same lockable entrance gate, so you can take over these mini-estates as a family as well. Kiddie amenities—bottle sterilizers, high chairs, toilet seats—are available upon request.

Eco effort 

There are glass water bottles instead of plastic ones, and straws are from paper. I’m sure they do their greenest best wherever possible, but calling this resort eco-friendly would be a stretch.

Accessibility 

There are wheelchair ramps in the lobby and restaurants, and select rooms have an accessible bathroom.

Anything left to mention? 

While beautiful, Phu Quoc isn’t as culture-rich as Vietnam’s other regions. Unless you’re after a fly-and-flop holiday, consider combining a stay here with a trip upcountry.